How is a lead qualification round ranked across two routes?
A · Advanced · The route and the score · 1 of 4Each climber is ranked on each of the two routes. The two rankings are multiplied and the square root is taken. The lower the figure, the better. A climber who is 1st on one route and 4th on the other gets 2.000, the same as one who is 2nd on both.
How it works
- Two routes: each climber is scheduled to attempt both.
- A rank on each: tops first, then by score on that route.
- The sum is not used: the rankings are multiplied and the root taken, which is the geometric mean.
- Lower is better: climbers are ranked "in ascending order of the Qualification Points".
- Three decimals: the figure is rounded to three decimal places.
- Ties on a route: tied climbers share a fractional ranking, the average of the places they occupy.
- Only one route climbed: the climber is ranked equal last on the other.
- Neither climbed: unranked and marked DNS.
- Who goes through: the best 24, with any tied in the last place included.
The glossary has the qualification points, the lead event format, the lead result, the quota, the starting group and the invalid result mark.
Tricky cases
A climber is 3rd on route A and 12th on route B. What are their points?
6.000: the square root of 3 times 12.
Three climbers tie for 2nd place on a route. What ranking does each get?
3: the average of 2nd, 3rd and 4th.
A climber wins route A but misses the call for route B. Where do they finish?
They are ranked equal last on route B, and their points are worked out from that.
Do qualification points carry into the semi-final?
Not as a score. The qualification ranking is used only as count-back if climbers tie in the semi-final.
Why the rule exists
Hold numbers on two different routes cannot be added: hold 30 on one is not the same achievement as hold 30 on the other. Rankings can be combined. Multiplying them rewards being near the front on both routes more than being first on one and far down on the other.
Where it differs
| Where | What changes | Source |
|---|---|---|
| Qualification | Qualification points across two routes | WC Event Regulations, Annex A 7.2 |
| Semi-final and final | Ranked on the single route | WC Event Regulations, Annex A 7.3 |
| Two starting groups | Each group is ranked on its own routes and the quota is split | WC Event Regulations, Annex A 2.2 |
From the rule book
World Climbing, Event Regulations (version 3, January 2026), Annex A sections 2 and 7 with notes 22 and 23. Checked 14 October 2026. Official documents: World Climbing Competition Rules, January 2026 (PDF) and World Climbing Event Regulations, January 2026 (PDF).