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What happens if a hold breaks or the timing fails during a climb?

A · Advanced · Rules for every climber · 2 of 3
Checked 14 October 2026

It may be ruled a technical incident: a fault that helped or hindered the climber and was not their own doing. Only the climber directly affected runs again. A climber who chooses to carry on after an incident that hurt them gives up the claim.

How it works

  • What it is: a broken or loose hold, a badly positioned quickdraw, a tight rope caused by the belayer, a critical timing failure or any unusual circumstance that puts one climber in a different situation from the rest.
  • Two tests: it must cause "a material disadvantage or advantage", and must not result from "the climber's own action or inaction".
  • Who decides: the on-field officials, consulting the Head Routesetter where needed.
  • Carrying on: a climber who continues after an incident that hurt their attempt has waived it.
  • An advantage cannot be waived: if the incident helped the climber, they may not choose to keep the benefit.
  • The better result: the result is "the better of the progress made before the incident and after any restart".
  • Who runs again: "only the competitor(s) directly affected by the incident will be re-run".
  • Auto-belay and timer: a claim about either may be made only for a clear or systematic error.
  • Deadline: an incident cannot be claimed after "At your marks" has been given for the next race.
  • Looking into it: the Jury President may review video or have the timing system tested.
  • Blood: a bleeding injury is not a technical incident. Holds are cleaned and the wound dressed, with no extra time.

The glossary has the technical incident, the jury president, the hold, the attempt, the climbing time and the official time.

Tricky cases

A hold spins under a climber's hand but they stay on and keep going. Can they claim afterwards?

No. Electing to continue after an incident that adversely affected the attempt waives it.

The timer fails to stop in lane A although the climber hit the pad cleanly. Do both climbers run again?

Only the climber directly affected is re-run, and only if a clear or systematic error of the system is confirmed.

A climber thinks the pad did not register their hit. Can they appeal?

Not by appeal. Concerns about the timing system can be raised only as a claim for a technical incident.

A climber cuts a finger and bleeds on a hold. Do they get time back?

No. A blood injury is not treated as a technical incident, unless the injury was itself caused by one.

Why the rule exists

The rules start from the principle that "climbers are primarily responsible for their own actions and decisions" while accepting that outside factors can spoil an attempt. The waiver stops a climber from carrying on to see how it goes and claiming the incident only if it goes badly.

Where it differs

WhereWhat changesSource
LeadRestart after a recovery period of up to 20 minutesWC Event Regulations, Annex A 8.2
BoulderExtra time within or after the rotationWC Event Regulations, Annex C 8.2 to 8.5
SpeedRe-run for the affected climber onlyWC Event Regulations, Annex B 9.3
Blood injuryNot a technical incidentWC Competition Rules 11.6; note 27

From the rule book

World Climbing, Competition Rules (version 3, January 2026), Rule 11 and the glossary definition with notes 27 and 33; World Climbing, Event Regulations (version 3, January 2026), Annex B section 9. Checked 14 October 2026. Official documents: World Climbing Competition Rules, January 2026 (PDF) and World Climbing Event Regulations, January 2026 (PDF).

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