How does a speed climb end, and what counts as a fall?
B · Beginner · The race · 3 of 3A run is successful when the climber stops the timer by striking the finishing pad with a hand. A run is a fall in three cases: the climber loses both hands from the holds, is being lowered by the auto-belay or hits the pad without stopping the timer. A slip that the climber recovers from is not a fall.
How it works
- Success: the climber "stops the timer by striking the finishing pad with a hand".
- The result: the actual climbing time.
- A slip: a loss of friction between foot and wall or hand and hold that slows or stops the upward movement.
- A fall: losing contact of the holds with both hands, or descending under the control of the auto-belay.
- Recovering: "A climber who has slipped may continue their attempt if they regain Control without having fallen."
- Missing the timer: striking the pad without stopping the timer is recorded as a fall.
- Other ways to fail: touching the ground, or gaining an advantage from out-of-bounds holds or from the safety equipment.
- What is written down: an unsuccessful run is recorded as a fall or a false start, depending on the cause.
- No appeal on the pad: a failure to stop the timer cannot be appealed where an approved system is in use.
The glossary has the fall, speed climbing, the official time, the control entry, the out of bounds entry and the technical incident.
Tricky cases
A climber's foot slips halfway up, they catch themselves and carry on to the top. Does the time stand?
Yes. A slip is not a fall if the climber regains control.
A climber slaps at the pad and misses the sensor, so the clock keeps running. What is the result?
A fall.
Both climbers fall in a knockout race. Who wins?
Nobody yet. The race is re-run. If the re-run does not settle it, their best results in the event are compared.
One climber falls and the other finishes slowly. Who wins?
The climber who finished. A valid time beats a fall, whatever the time.
Why the rule exists
The pad makes the finish exact: the climber's own hand stops their own clock. The fall rule was rewritten for this edition because the old wording produced odd results when both climbers slipped at about the same height. Now a climber who stays on the wall is still racing.
Where it differs
| Where | What changes | Source |
|---|---|---|
| Speed | Finish by striking the pad | WC Competition Rules 8.4 |
| Lead | Finish by clipping the final anchor | WC Competition Rules 8.3 |
| Boulder | Finish by matching the top hold in control | WC Competition Rules 8.5 |
| Knockout race, both fall | Re-run, then best results | WC Event Regulations, Annex B 6.3 |
From the rule book
World Climbing, Competition Rules (version 3, January 2026), Rules 8.1, 8.4, 9.4 and 9.5 with note 16; World Climbing, Event Regulations (version 3, January 2026), Annex B sections 6 and 10. Checked 14 October 2026. Official documents: World Climbing Competition Rules, January 2026 (PDF) and World Climbing Event Regulations, January 2026 (PDF).