What equipment can a competition climber use?
Officials' detail · Rules for every climber · 1 of 1Climbing shoes are compulsory, as is a harness. A chalk bag with ordinary dry or liquid chalk is allowed. A helmet may be worn. Gloves and kneepads are banned, and so is anything that changes the condition of the holds, such as a sticky additive or saliva.
How it works
- Must wear: "climbing shoes and, where relevant, a climbing harness".
- May use: a chalk bag with commercially available dry or liquid chalk, and a climbing helmet.
- Banned on the hands and holds: "any substance or equipment that modifies the condition of holds or the climbing surface".
- Tack: any agent that adds stickiness is expressly prohibited.
- Saliva: spitting on hands or holds is prohibited, and a contaminated hold is cleaned with no extra time for the climber.
- Water: drinking water or a non-greasing hydrating agent may be used to clean the hands, with the excess wiped off.
- Banned to wear: gloves and kneepads, unless the event's regulations allow them.
- Allowed for injuries: elastic compression wraps and kinesiology tape.
- No earphones: nothing that could stop officials communicating with the climber.
- The climber's responsibility: each climber is "entirely and solely responsible" for their own equipment and clothing.
- The auto-belay: the belayer checks the harness and connects it to the auto-belay before each run.
- The start pad: each climber positions the pad for their preferred starting stance.
The glossary has the personal equipment entry, the chalk entry, the harness, the hold, the wall and the caution and disqualification entry.
Tricky cases
Can a climber use liquid chalk with resin in it?
Not if it adds tack or otherwise alters the condition of a hold. Any such agent is expressly prohibited.
A climber licks their fingertips before a move. Is that allowed?
No. The use of saliva before or during an attempt is prohibited.
Can a climber wear a kneepad for a knee-bar?
Not unless the applicable competition regulations allow kneepads.
Does chalk left on a hold by a climber's hand break the rule?
No. The transfer of chalk residue that occurs naturally during climbing is not a violation.
Why the rule exists
The rule book gives the principle: what one climber puts on the holds "should not have any consequence for later-starting competitors". Chalk dries the hands and brushes off. A sticky agent stays on the hold and changes the climb for everyone who follows.
Where it differs
| Where | What changes | Source |
|---|---|---|
| All disciplines | Shoes, chalk, optional helmet | WC Competition Rules 3.3 |
| Lead and speed | A harness is worn | WC Competition Rules 3.3 |
| Boulder | No harness; a small bag and a water spray may be taken onto the floor | WC Event Regulations, Annex C 4.14; note 62 |
| Where the event's regulations allow | Gloves or kneepads | WC Competition Rules 3.4 |
From the rule book
World Climbing, Competition Rules (version 3, January 2026), Rules 2 and 3 with notes 6 and 7; World Climbing, Event Regulations (version 3, January 2026), Annex B 4.7 and 4.8. Checked 14 October 2026. Official documents: World Climbing Competition Rules, January 2026 (PDF) and World Climbing Event Regulations, January 2026 (PDF).