How does a climber finish a lead route?
B · Beginner · The route and the score · 3 of 3By clipping the rope into the final anchor of the route within the time allowed. Reaching or holding the last hold is not enough. A top is the best result possible, and when several climbers top a route their climbing times may be recorded to help separate them.
How it works
- The rule: an attempt "will be ruled successful if a climber clips the final anchor on the route".
- Marked: each lead route must show which anchor is the top.
- From any hold: in lead, the result is a top "regardless of the hold used to clip the final anchor".
- When it is timed: the attempt ends when the gate of the final anchor closes on the rope.
- In time: the clip must be made before the allowed climbing time expires.
- What is recorded: "Top and, when required by the applicable competition regulations, the actual climbing time".
- Ranking: all who topped are placed ahead of all who did not.
- Rounded down: for breaking ties, the climbing time is rounded down to the second.
The glossary has the top, the lead result, the quickdraw, the climbing time, the lead tie-break and the attempt.
Tricky cases
A climber grabs the final hold, cannot clip and falls. Is that a top?
No. The result is the last hold controlled, with a plus if they were moving on from it.
A climber clips the final anchor from a hold below the last one. Does it count?
Yes in a lead event. The combined boulder and lead discipline requires the clip to be made from the marked finishing hold.
The rope goes into the anchor one second after the six minutes. Top or not?
Not a top. An attempt is unsuccessful once the allowed time has expired.
Five climbers top the final route. Do they share first place?
They are tied on the route. Count-back to the semi-final is used first, and climbing time breaks any podium tie that remains.
Why the rule exists
Clipping is the proof that the climber not only reached the end but was in control there, with a hand free. It is also the moment the climber is safe, and one a judge on the ground can see without argument.
Where it differs
| Where | What changes | Source |
|---|---|---|
| Lead | Clip the final anchor from any hold | WC Competition Rules 8.3; note 20 |
| Lead stage of boulder and lead | Clip from the marked finishing hold | WC Competition Rules note 20 |
| Boulder | Match the finishing hold in control | WC Competition Rules 8.5 |
| Speed | Strike the finishing pad | WC Competition Rules 8.4 |
From the rule book
World Climbing, Competition Rules (version 3, January 2026), Rules 1.11, 8.1, 8.3 and 9.3 with note 20; World Climbing, Event Regulations (version 3, January 2026), Annex A 7.1 and note 24. Checked 14 October 2026. Official documents: World Climbing Competition Rules, January 2026 (PDF) and World Climbing Event Regulations, January 2026 (PDF).